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This "Community Garden Start-Up Guide" is intended
to help neighborhood groups and organizations along the path
to starting and sustaining a community garden.


Rose arbor enterance
to the Carmelitos Housing Development Community
Garden in Long Beach, designed by Common Ground
staffer Pete Beaudoin and constructed with the help
of the Growing Experience on-the-horticultural-job-training
crew. The Growing Experience program is cosponsored
by Common Ground and the Community Development Commission.
Photo by Yvonne Savio, ©
UC Regents 2001. |
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Many families living
in the city would like to grow some of their own fruits,
vegetables, herbs, and flowers. Some want to save money
on their food bills. Others like the freshness, flavor
and wholesomeness of home-grown produce. And for many,
gardening is a relaxing way to exercise and enjoy being
out-of-doors. There are also families from other cultures
who would like to grow traditional foods not available
in the supermarket.
Community gardens beautify neighborhoods
and help bring neighbors closer together. They have
been proven as tools to reduce neighborhood crime--particularly
when vacant, blighted lots are targeted for garden development.
Community gardens provide safe, recreational green space
in urban areas with little or no park land, and can
contribute greatly to keeping urban air clean.
Those who are lucky enough to have
sunny backyards or balconies can plant a garden whenever
they have the time and energy. But what about those
who do not have a place to garden? For these people,
community gardens may be the answer.
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There is a lot of work involved in starting a new garden.
Make sure you have several people who will help you.
Over the years, our experience indicates that there
should be at least ten interested families to create
and sustain a garden project. Survey the residents of
your neighborhood to see if they are interested and
would participate. Hold monthly meetings of the interested
group to develop and initiate plans, keep people posted
on the garden's progress, and keep them involved in
the process from day one.
A garden club is a way of formally organizing your new
group. It helps you make decisions and divide-up the
work effectively. It also ensures that every one has
a vested interest in the garden and can contribute to
its design, development, and maintenance. It can be
formed at any time during the process of starting a
community garden; however, it's wise to do so early
on. This way, club members can share in the many tasks
of establishing the new garden. The typical garden club
will have many functions, including:
- Establishing garden rules (see sample)
- Accepting and reviewing garden applications
- Making plot assignments
- Collecting garden dues (if any)
- Paying water bills
- Resolving conflicts
The typical garden club has at least two
officers: a president and a treasurer; although your
garden club may have more if necessary. Elections for
garden officers usually are held annually.
Look around your neighborhood for a vacant lot that
gets plenty of sun--at least six to eight hours each
day. A garden site should be relatively flat (although
slight slopes can be terraced). It should be relatively
free of large pieces of concrete left behind from demolition
of structures. Any rubble or debris should be manageable--that
is, it can be removed by volunteers clearing the lot
with trash bags, wheelbarrows, and pick up trucks. Ideally,
it should have a fence around it with a gate wide enough
for a vehicle to enter. It is possible to work with
a site that is paved with concrete or asphalt by building
raised beds that sit on the surface or using containers.
You can also remove the asphalt or concrete to create
areas for gardens, but such a garden will be much more
difficult, expensive, and time-consuming to start. A
site without paving, and soil relatively free of trash
and debris is best.
The potential garden site should be within
walking, or no more than a short drive from you and
the neighbors who have expressed interest in participating.
If the lot is not already being used, make sure the
community supports establishing a garden there.
It's best to select three potential sites
in your neighborhood and write down their address and
nearest cross streets. If you don't know the address
of a vacant lot, get the addresses of the properties
on both sides of the lot--this will give you the ability
to make an educated guess on the address of the site.
We suggest you identify at least three potential sites
because one or more might not be available for you to
use for various reasons, and you want to end up with
at least one that works out.
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Helping kids get growing from the
beginnings of a garden in Watts.
Photo by Yvonne Savio, © UC Regents 2001.
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It is illegal to use land without obtaining the owners
permission. In order to obtain permission, you must first
find out who owns the land.
Take the information you have written
down about the location of the sites in step 3 to your
county's tax assessor's office. The Los Angeles County
Tax Assessor's office is located at 225 North Hill Street,
Room 205. Or go to a branch office listed in the white
pages of the telephone directory. At this office, you
will look through the map books to get the names and
addresses of the owner of the sites you are interested
in.
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While you are researching site ownership, contact the water
service provider in your area to find out if your potential
site(s) has/have an existing water meter to hook-in to. Call
your water provider's customer service department, and ask them
to conduct a "site investigation". They will need
the same location information that you took with you to the
Tax Assessor's office.
Existing access to water will make a critical difference in
the expense of getting your project started. Depending on the
size of your garden site, you will need a 1/2-inch to 1-inch
water meter. If there has been water service to the site in
the past, it is relatively inexpensive to get a new water meter
installed (if one doesn't already exist). If there has never
been water service to that site, it might cost much more for
your water provider to install a lateral line from the street
main to the site and install your new meter.
Once you have determined that your potential site is feasible,
write a letter to the landowner asking for permission to use
the property for a community garden. Be sure to mention to the
landowner the value of the garden to the community and the fact
the gardeners will be responsible for keeping the site clean
and weed-free (this saves landowners from maintaining the site
or paying city weed abatement fees).
Establish a term for use of the site, and prepare
and negotiate a lease. Typically, groups lease garden sites
from land owners for $1 per year. You should attempt to negotiate
a lease for a least three years (or longer if the property
owner is agreeable). Many landowners are worried about their
liability for injuries that might occur at the garden. Therefore,
you should include a simple "hold harmless" waiver
in the lease and in gardener agreement forms. For more information
on the lease, and the hold harmless waiver, see 8, "Signing
a Lease".
Be prepared to purchase liability insurance
to protect further the property owner (and yourself) should
an accident occur at the garden. For more information on the
hold harmless waiver, and liability insurance, see 8, "Signing
a Lease", and 9, "Obtaining Liability Insurance".
It might be advisable to have the soil at the site tested
for fertility pH and presence of heavy metals. A soil test
costs between $30 to $80 from private labs. Lists of labs
are available by contacting the Natural Resources Conservation
Service (NRCS) at (626) 312-4900.
Landowners of potential garden sites might be concerned about
their liability should someone be injured while working in
the garden. Your group should be prepared to offer the landowner
a lease with a "hold harmless" waiver. This "hold
harmless" waiver can simply state that should one of
the gardeners be injured as a result of negligence on the
part of another gardener, the landowner is "held harmless"
and will not be sued. Each gardener should be made aware of
this waiver and should be required to sign an agreement in
order to obtain a plot in the community garden. A sample gardener
agreement form is attached which your group can use as a model.
Landowners may also require that your group purchase liability
insurance. Community gardeners in the Los Angeles area can
obtain inexpensive policies from Metro Farm Gardens. Contact
Toby Leaman at (323) 663-7441 or email ATLeaman@aol.com,
for more information on obtaining an insurance policy.
Once you have a lease signed by the landowner
and liability insurance, you're free to plan and plant your
garden!
Community members should be involved in the planning, design,
and set-up of the garden. Before the design process begins,
you should measure your site and make a simple, to-scale site
map. Hold two or three garden design meetings at times when
interested participants can attend. Make sure that group decisions
are recorded in official minutes, or that someone takes accurate
notes. This ensures that decisions made can be communicated
to
others, and progress will not be slowed. A great way to generate
ideas and visualize the design is to use simple drawings or
photos cut from garden magazines representing the different
garden components--flower beds, compost bins, pathways, arbors,
etc.--that can be moved around on the map as the group discusses
layout.
a. Basic Elements of a Community Garden
Although there are exceptions to every rule, community gardens
should almost always
include:
At least 15 plots assigned to community members. These
should be placed in the sunniest part of the garden. Without
plots for individual participation, it is very difficult to
achieve long-term community involvement. Raised bed plots,
which are more expensive, should be no more than 4 feet wide
(to facilitate access to plants from the sides without stepping
into the bed), and between 8 and 12 feet long (it is advisable
to construct your raised beds in sizes that are found in readily-available
lumber, or that can be cut without too much waste). In-ground
plots can be from 10 x 10 up to 20 x 20 feet. Pathways between
beds and plots should be least 3 to 4 feet wide to allow space
for wheelbarrows. The soil in both raised bed and in-ground
plots should be amended with aged compost or manure to improve
its fertility and increase its organic matter content.
A simple irrigation system with one hose bib or faucet
for every four plots. Hand watering with a hose is the most
practical and affordable for individual plots (and it's almost
a necessity when you start plants from seed). Drip and soaker-hose
irrigation can be used in all areas of the garden for transplanted
and established plants, but especially for deep-rooted fruit
trees and ornamentals. If no one in your group is knowledgeable
about irrigation, you might need some assistance in designing
your irrigation system. Seek out a landscape contractor or
nursery or garden center professional to help you develop
a basic layout and materials list.
An 8-foot fence around the perimeter with a drive-through
gate. In our experience, this is a key element of success.
Don't count on eliminating all acts of vandalism or theft,
but fencing will help to keep these to tolerably low levels.
A tool shed or other structure for storing tools, supplies,
and materials. Recycled metal shipping containers make excellent
storage sheds, and are almost vandal-proof. Contact the Port
Authority for leads on where to find them.
A bench or picnic table where gardeners can sit, relax,
and take a break--preferably in shade. If there are no shade
trees on the site, a simple arbor can be constructed from
wood or pipe, and planted with chayote squash, bougainvillea,
grapes, kiwis, or some other vine.
A sign with the garden's name, sponsors, and a contact
person's phone number for more information. If your community
is bilingual, include information in this language.
A shared composting area for the community gardeners.
Wood pallets are easy to come-by and (when stood on-end, attached
in an U-shape, and the inside covered with galvanized rabbit-wire)
make excellent compost bins.
b. Nice Additions to Your Garden Plan
A small fruit tree orchard, whose care and harvest
can be shared by all the members. The orchard can also create
shade for people as well as shade-loving plants.
A water fountain. This can be a simple drinking fountain
attachment to a hose bib (or faucet) you can purchase at a
hardware store.
Perimeter landscaping, which can focus on drought tolerant
flowers and shrubs, plants which attract butterflies and hummingbirds,
or roses and other flowers suitable for cutting bouquets.
Herbs are also well-suited to perimeter landscaping and help
to create barriers to unwanted pest insects who do not like
the smell of their essential oils.
A children's area, which can include special small
plots for children, a sand box, and play equipment.
A meeting area, which could range from a semi-circle
of hay bales or tree stumps, to a simple amphitheater built
of recycled, broken concrete. Building a shade structure above,
would be beneficial as well.
A community bulletin board where rules, meeting notices,
and other important information can be posted.
Use your design to develop a materials list and cost-out the
project. You will need to call-around to get prices on fencing
and other items. You might be surprised at the cost. A community
garden with just the Basic Elements (listed above) typically
costs between $2,500 to $5,000. At this point, your group
might decide to scale back your initial plans and save some
design ideas for a "Phase Two" of the garden.
While some start-up funds will be needed through determination
and hard work, you can obtain donations of materials for your
project. Community businesses might assist, and provide anything
from fencing to lumber to plants. The important thing is to
ask. Develop a letter that tells merchants about your project
and why it's important to the community. Attach your "wish
list", but be reasonable. Try to personalize this letter
for each business you approach. Drop it off personally with
the store manager, preferably with a couple of cute kids who
will be gardening in tow! Then, follow-up by phone. Be patient,
persistent, and polite. Your efforts will pay-off with at
least some of the businesses you approach. Be sure to thank
these key supporters and recognize them on your garden sign,
at a garden grand opening, or other special event.
Money, which will be needed to purchase items
not donated, can be obtained through community fund-raisers
such as car washes, craft and rummage sales, pancake breakfasts,
and bake sales. They can also be obtained by writing grants,
but be aware grant writing efforts can take six months or
longer to yield results, and you must have a fiscal sponsor
or agent with tax-exempt 501(c)3 status (such as a church
or non-profit corporation) that agrees to administer the funds.
If you have not yet formed a garden club, now's the time to
do so. It's also time to establish garden rules, develop a
garden application form for those who wish to participate,
set up a bank account, and determine what garden dues will
be if these things have not already been done. This is also
the time to begin having monthly meetings if you have not
already done so. Also, if you haven't already contacted your
city councilperson, he or she can be helpful in many ways
including helping your group obtain city services such as
trash pick-up. Their staff can also help you with community
organizing and soliciting for material donations.
Many new garden groups make the mistake of remaining in the
planning, design and fundraising stage for an extended period
of time. There is a fine line between planning well and over
planning. After several months of the initial research, designing,
planning, and outreach efforts, group members will very likely
be feeling frustrated and will begin to wonder if all their
efforts will ever result in a garden. That's why it's important
to plant something on your site as soon as possible. People
need to see visible results or they will begin to lose interest
in the project. To keep the momentum going, initiate the following
steps even if you are still seeking donations and funds or
your project (but not until you have signed a lease and obtained
insurance).
a. Clean up the Site
Schedule community workdays to clean up the site. How many
work days you need will depend on the size of the site, and
how much and what kind of debris are on site.
b. Install the Irrigation System
Without water, you can't grow anything. So get this key element
into place as soon as possible. There are plenty of opportunities
for community involvement--from digging trenches to laying
out PVC pipes.
c. Plant Something
Once you have water, there are many options for in-garden
action. Stake out beds and pathways by marking them with stakes
and twine. Mulch pathways (free mulch is available through
the Los Angeles Unified School District (213) 763-2968 or
fax (213) 745-7067). If your fence isn't in yet, some people
might still want to accept the risk of vandalism and get their
plots started. You can also plant shade and fruit trees and
begin to landscape the site. If you do not yet have a source
of donated plants, or don't wish to risk having them vandalized,
plant annual flower seeds which will grow quickly and can
be replaced later. Seeds for Los Angeles County community
and school gardens can be obtained through the Common Ground
Garden Program (323) 260-3348.
d. Continue to construct the garden as materials and funds
become available.
At this point, your ideas and hard work have finally become
a community garden! Be sure to take time to celebrate. Have
a grand opening, barbecue, or some other fun event to give
everyone who helped to make this happen a special thank-you.
This is the time to give all those who gave donated materials
or time a special certificate, bouquet, or other form of recognition.
All community gardens will experience problems somewhere along
the way. Don't get discourage--get organized. The key to success
for community gardens is not only preventing problems from
ever occurring, but also working together to solve them when
they do inevitably occur. In our experience, these are some
of the most common problems that "crop-up" in community
gardens, and our suggestions for solving them
a. Vandalism
Most gardens experience occasional vandalism. The best action
you can take is to replant immediately. Generally the vandals
become bored after a while and stop. Good community outreach,
especially to youth and the garden's immediately neighbors
is also important. Most important--don't get to discouraged.
It happens. Get over it and keep going. What about barbed
wired or razor wire to make the garden more secure? Our advice--don't.
It's bad for community relations, looks awful, and is sometimes
illegal to install without a permit. If you need more physical
deterrents to keep vandals out, plant bougainvillea or pyracantha
along your fence, their thorns will do the trick!
b. Security
Invite the community officer from your local precinct to a
garden meeting to get their suggestions on making the garden
more secure. Community officers can also be a great help in
solving problems with garden vandalism, and dealing with drug
dealers, and gang members in the area.
c. Communication
Clear and well-enforced garden rules and a strong garden president
can go a long way towards minimizing misunderstandings in
the garden. But communication problems do arise. It's the
job of the garden club to resolve those issues. If it's something
not clearly spelled out in the rules, the membership can take
a vote to add new rules and make modifications to existing
rules.
Language barriers are a very common source
of misunderstandings. Garden club leadership should make every
effort to have a translator at garden meetings where participants
are bilingual--perhaps a family member of one of the garden
members who speaks the language will offer to help.
d. Trash
It's important to get your compost system going right away
and get some training for gardeners on how to use it. If gardeners
don't compost, large quantities of waste will begin to build
up, create an eyesore, and could hurt your relationships with
neighbors and the property owner. Waste can also become a
fire hazard. Make sure gardeners know how to sort trash properly,
what to compost, and what to recycle. Trash cans placed in
accessible areas are helpful to keep a neat and tidy garden.
e. Gardener Drop-Out
There has been, and probably always will be, a high rate of
turnover in community gardens. Often, people sign up for plots
and then don't follow through. Remember, gardening is hard
work for some people, especially in the heat of summer. Be
sure to have a clause in your gardener agreement which states
gardeners forfeit their right to their plot if they don't
plant it within one month, or if they don't maintain it. While
gardeners should be given every opportunity to follow through,
if after several reminders either by letter or phone nothing
changes, it is time for the club to reassign the plot. It
is also advisable that every year, the leadership conduct
a renewed community outreach campaign by contacting churches
and other groups in the neighborhood to let them know about
the garden and that plots are available.
f. Weeds
Gardeners tend to visit their plots less during the winter
time, and lower participation, combined with rain, tends to
create a huge weed problem in January, February, and March.
Remember, part of your agreement with the landowner is that
you will maintain the lot and keep weeds from taking over.
In the late summer/early fall, provide gardeners with a workshop
or printed material about what can be grown in a fall and
winter garden. Also, schedule garden workdays for the spring
in advance since you know you'll need them at the end of winter
to clear weeds. If you anticipate that plots will be untended
during the winter, apply a thick layer of mulch or hay to
the beds and paths to reduce weed proliferation.
Yvonne Savio
Common Ground Garden Program Manager
University of California Cooperative Extension, Los Angeles
County
4800 E. Cesar Chavez Avenue
Los Angeles 90022
Phone: (323) 260-3407
Fax: (323) 323-881-0067
E-mail: ydsavio@ucdavis.edu
Volunteers of the Common Ground Garden Program help limited-resource
county residents to grow and eat more nutritious vegetables
and fruits. Programs include Master Gardeners, Fresh From
The Garden, Master Food Preservers, Gardening Angels (school
gardens), and Community Gardens.
The University of California, in accordance
with applicable Federal and State law and University policy,
does not discriminate on the basis of race, color, national
origin, religion, sex, disability, age, medical condition
(cancer-related), ancestry, marital status, citizenship, sexual
orientation, or status as a Vietnam era veteran.
Inquiries regarding the University's nondiscrimination
policies may be directed to the Affirmative Action Director,
University of California, Agriculture and Natural Resources,
1111 Franklin Street, 6th Floor, Oakland, CA 94607-5200, (510)
987-0096.
A sample
community garden contract can be found at the end of the pdf
version of this article (30k)
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